Warp vs weft | Which way does the stripe run?

• A piece of fabric has two directions: warp and weft.
• There are two types of pattern repeat: horizontal or vertical.

Warp is the long yarn running vertically up and down the roll of fabric, governing the vertical pattern repeat regardless of fabric width.

Weft is the yarn passing horizontally across the fabric roll. It is generally shorter and governs the horizontal pattern repeat regardless of fabric width.

The horizontal pattern repeat is a measurement of the design repeating across the roll of fabric in the weft direction. 

The vertical repeat is always measured in the warp direction (or up the roll of fabric).

Keeping the above in mind, you have the knowledge to work out the question of stripe direction for yourself. Let’s look at two examples:

Example one:

• Horizontal pattern repeat (weft): 30cm

• Vertical pattern repeat (warp): nil

The horizontal pattern repeat indicates that the pattern repeats in 30cm increments in the weft direction (across the roll). Therefore, we know that the stripe is running up the roll.

This would be common in standard width draperies, where the drops are joined selvedge-to-selvedge for a vertical stripe effect at the window.

Example two:

• Horizontal pattern repeat (weft): nil

• Vertical pattern repeat (warp): 30cm

The vertical pattern repeat indicates that the pattern repeats in 30cm increments in the warp direction (up the roll). Therefore, we know that the stripe is running across the roll, from selvedge-to-selvedge.

If this fabric was wide width (280 cm+) – and stable in both the warp and weft directions – the roll could be turned 90 degrees and used continuously across the length of the window. Displaying the stripe in a vertical orientation with the selvedge running across the top and bottom of the window.

Standard width drapery is hung in drops and joined at the selvages. Although stripes typically run up the roll for a vertical visual effect from floor to ceiling, some weaves run the stripe from selvedge to selvedge with a vertical repeat to present a horizontal stripe at the window.

Wide width draperies are 280-330cm wide fabric rolls that can be turned 90 degrees and run the length of a wall without requiring joins, creating an end-to-end seamless curtain product which is simple to manufacture. A wide width fabric with a vertical pattern repeat (horizontal stripes) would end up as vertical stripes when manufactured in this way.

Upholstery fabrics can be used in either way depending on stripe direction and frame construction. On upholstery fabric rolls, stripes are generally woven from selvedge to selvedge, with a vertical pattern repeat, or across the roll so that you can turn the roll and run it the length of a long sofa without joins.